Agdz - Morocco
Agdz may just be a small, oasis, desert town, but it’s one of my favorite places in Morocco. It was my home for two years and taught me so much about myself and the world in general. I wrote a lot about what Morocco has taught me over the years in the blog post, Cornerstones - Morocco, and most of those lessons were learned in Agdz. While modern day Agdz isn’t full of monuments or impressive mosques, it is overflowing with Moroccan charm, hospitality and history. This is a place that is more fully appreciated when you read up on its history before visiting. You can get some good background info here.
How do I get to Agdz?
Now that you’ve conquered the Tishka, the difficult part of this Saharan road trip is behind you. From Ouarzazate, there are several easier travel options available to you. Personally, I recommend renting a car at this point, even if you were previously utilizing public transport. My reasoning for that is, there are a ton of small places to stop and see along the route, which would be impossible with taxis or buses. Also, the terrain and traffic this far out is significantly less crazy than urban areas. Having a vehicle also provides you with the most convenience and flexibility, as there are far fewer options for public transport.
If you do decide to rent a car, just make sure to keep you eyes peeled for stray animals and poor road conditions (especially along the edges).
( I have all kinds of videos about our most recent Saharan road on our Instagram. )
PRO TIP
Make sure your rental car has everything you need to change a tire. We have had to change a tire along the desert route, and this is not a place your want to be stuck without the necessary tools!
Bus
If you still aren’t sold on the idea of renting a car then you can grab either a Supratours or CTM from the center of Ouarzazate. CTM, offers a very early morning bus and then several in the afternoon. CTM is 30 DH and Supratours in 35 DH. If you are traveling during peak season, I would try and get you tickets before the day of.
Taxi
Taxis to Agdz from Ouarzazate are quiet frequent and cost around 30 DH, depending on the time of year. Simply ask a taxi driver to take you to the (Mahta - taxi). Remember all taxis is Ouarzazate should cost 4 DH during the day and 5 DH at night.
When should I go to Agdz?
Agdz is completely doable all year, but we suggest going from October to December or March to June, as the weather is milder and the skies are usually clearer. Summers can be brutal here, so it’s best to avoid that time period if at all possible.
The best time of the week to go however, is THURSDAY! Most villages in Morocco lack supermarkets and still heavily rely on weekly souk, or market day. Thursday is souk day in Agdz and it is definitely a sight worth seeing, truly a window into normal village life. While living in Agdz, we would go every week to have breakfast, stock up on food for the week and see our friends. So if you find yourself in Agdz on a Thursday, this really isn’t to be missed.
What are the best restaurants in Agdz?
Agdz is a quaint oasis town and you will love it, but it is not what one would call a culinary hotbed, by any means. That being said there are definitely some good meals to be had.
First off, if you are staying in a hotel or guest house, you will surely be served a delicious meal and more tea than you could ever imagine. But if you are just stopping in then there are several cafes in center that serve simple, nice meals. In the two years Ben and I lived in Agdz, we practically lived off of Cafe Sables D’Or and loved every meal we had, you really can’t go wrong with this one.
As you are entering Agdz from Ouarzazate, you will see a place, Cafe Du Sud on your left. It is a cute restaurant with a nice garden. The food is a bit more expensive and much like what you would get ‘in town,’ but the environment is nice.
If you plan ahead, you could also contact the amazing team at Kasbah des Caids, Hasan is the owner and manager and will take great care of you. Kasbah des Caids is actually in Tamnougalt, a village just next to Agdz.
What should I do in Agdz?
Some may breeze through Agdz and think, ‘there’s nothing here to do anyways,’ but that simply isn’t true.
The first thing you should do when arranging a trip to Agdz is message me and book a “Lunch & Carpet Weaving Workshop”. If you have found yourself traveling around Morocco and desiring to know more - about the culture, day-to-day life, customs, or simply what a normal home looks like, then this is the experience for you. Lunch will be prepared by Naima, either before your arrival, or with you as you arrive (you decide). Her food and tea are other worldly - I guarantee, it will be one of your favorite meals in Morocco, and it can be customized to meet any dietary restrictions.
After lunch, or while it is cooking, you will sit down with Naima and she will show you how Moroccan carpets are woven. She is an expert weaver and patiently walks you through every step of the process, from raw wool to finished product. The whole experience lasts around 4 hours and costs 500 DH a person. Naima also has a nice selection of carpets available that she had the women in her family have hand made. She is more than happy to sell them, but there is absolutely no pressure whatsoever. She simply loves having people in her home and sharing her talents and expertise with them.
After the workshop you should visit Tizgui Waterfall, just a few kilometers outside of town. It is not a huge waterfall, but it is quite lovely and if you are there during summer the chilling water will deffinitely help cut the desert heat. When you arrive in Tizgui, you have to walk down stairs into a valley where you will find Omar, the guard, and the pool. It makes for a peaceful afternoon of cliff jumping and tea. You will have to pay Omar a few DH, maybe 50-100 DH per car.
Around sunset, the best time to do is to head to the government building on the hill and score the most iconic Agdz shot. If you have a car, simply drive straight past the CTM station, headed up the hill and keep going straight until the very top. This is the parking lot for the main government building in Agdz and gives you the best view of Jbel Kissane.
Where should I stay in Agdz?
While unique food options may be somewhat lacking, Agdz and the surrounding villages are full of amazing guest houses. These are some of the ones I know and love!
Maison d'Hôtes Kasbah Azul
This place is the most expensive at around $100 USD a night, but it is an absolute stunner and my number one pick for summer stays!
Dar Jnane - La Maison Du Jardin
I wouldn’t stay here in the summer months because there’s now pool, but it’s a great, cheap winter option. And the food is SO GOOD.
Dar Sofar
Dar Sofar has a great ambiance, price, and staff. You really can’t go wrong with this place and I mean, check out that pool.
And if none of my picks inspired you, no worries, there are plenty of other options in Agdz.
STILL HAVE A QUESTION ABOUT AGDZ?
Ask me anything in the comments section below and I’ll get back to you!
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RAMBLE ON!